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Interview with Maj. Krishnatry

Tenzin Khapahk’s exclusive conversation with Major S.M Krishnatry.

An 87 year old retired Maj. S.M. Krishnatry, the first Indian Trade Agent to Tibet tells Tibetoday about the Tibet he had seen and his upcoming book Tibet 1947-54.

Tibetoday: The first ever Indian to visit Tibet officially way back in April 1947. Will you share with our readers a bit about the purpose of your visit and for how long?

M.K: Well, it was a pleasant moment when I came to know that I was going to Tibet. One fine morning when we were resting at the Namkhong camp in Bihar after a battle in Indonesia, our then brigadier Rajendra Singh Ji, who later became the Chief of Indian Army staff drove in and told that Govt. of India is in great need of an officer to replace the British officer in Tibet since the British have finished their innings in India in 1947. So I was nominated and had to go to Gyantse as the Officer Commanding (O.C) of the Indian troops stationed there.

It took us 13 days marching all the way to Gyantse resting couple of days at few places. I was really enchanted when I saw lines of Tibetan ponies and horses all decked up in beautiful colours on our way; their bells jingling around them and the traders singing songs and all, it was such a dream come true.
I was there during the first three years as the army officer commanding and later two and half year as the Indian trade agent at Gyantse to replace Hu Richardson, who had shifted to Lhasa. After that I was posted to Sikkim, all together for seven years (1947- 54) I was there in that region.

Tibetoday: If you could tell us briefly about the trade exchange in terms of commodities across the border and how beneficial was it for the two nations.

M.K: Well, it was beneficial mutually. As far as Tibetan trade to India was concerned it was nearly 90% wool. Wool caravan used to go during the dry season almost regularly and continuously. It is mostly traded through Kalimpong and Gangtok side from where it goes into other neighbouring countries as well. And from India it used to be mostly day to day goods like electric goods and utensils.
There are mainly two routes facilitating the trade between the two nations, they were Nathula in Sikkim and Jelep la near the Kalimpong side of the border.

Tibetoday: A 7 long years away from home in a nation with almost no Indians, how did you manage that, haven’t you ever felt insecure during your stay there?

M.K: No question of insecurity, I was very much secured with the Tibetan people and Chinese. I was in great comfort and the greatest thing for the soldier is to perform his duty. As long as his duties are being performed happily the heart is happy; the mind is happy. So there is no question about insecurity.

Tibetoday: Will you briefly describe Tibet of those times from your personal view point especially for those who were born in exile?

M.K: Tibet in my time was somewhat disturbed because of the Chinese having taken an offensive or aimed at taking offensive when chairman Mao had warned that Tibet will be invaded. So we were all prepared, we were all anxious about it. So was the Tibetan Govt. Otherwise, Tibet was a perfect nation there was no doubt about it.

Social life was wonderful, Tibetans were very happy people, and their daily life closely accompanies with cheerful songs.

Tibetoday: Would you tell us a bit on the Indo-China relation that existed during your stay there in Tibet?
M.K: India and China were naturally very friendly forever in history. Even during my time in Tibet were also friendly indeed.

Tibetoday: What is you personal view on Tibetan Freedom Struggle?

M.K: Tibetan Freedom Struggle, this is long way off, it is gone. The Dalai Lama is not seeking Independence anymore. He is a wonderful statesman; he is wise, very able, and politically giant before others. He has already said that I have told Chinese so many times, I am not wanting freedom, we have to live together in a future, all countries have to live together in future.

Definitely, it has to be peaceful negotiation; even now the peaceful negotiation is going on with China. We don’t know how come we don’t hear about it. Both the Tibetan and Chinese should get together, convince each other. What they are talking is not easy to find out but both side of Chinese headquarter and Tibetan headquarter in Dharamshala must be knowing what is going on. What is not understandable is why China is taking such a long time to invite person like the Dalai Lama, who is by far not only the best Dalia Lama but probably the best person in the whole of Tibet and China put together. So, all I can say is that it is lost to China. Therefore I have a strong feeling that they should invite the Dalai Lama and reconcile the relationship with the Tibetan Govt. in Dharamshala. I don’t think there is any problem except for the some strange philosophy that stops China from doing this.

Tibetoday: “Arunachal Pradesh is a part of China.” Being a part of civil administration in North Eastern India for more than 30 years, what’s your view on this recent claim by China?

M.K: Oh, I told you, you should not be bothered about these things. These ups and downs will go on and keep coming. This thing could be carried out by negotiation and we believe in friendly talks. These things are there because it has to be continued in the history. It is not that they wanted it very much. They know that it has been outside the Tibet boundaries before and they know that in 1914 during the Shimla Convention, they have more or less decided that frontier line would run across this area. But the Chinese Ambans who has attended the convention said initially that he won’t sign it and went back and after that new Govt. of China they don’t want to confirm it.

Let’s hope everything will be ok. China and India had already settled so many other questions whether its question of Tibet, Sikkim, Bhutan. Everything is fine now and there is hardly any conflict and what is there in these conflicts. This will go on and on. This is the part of history, what is history for then.

Tibetoday: I have heard about the book on Tibet you have been working on. Will you share with us a few details about the upcoming book?

M.K: Well, the working title of the book is Tibet 1947-54. It is a kind of a coffee book with photographs describing the life in the Roof of the World during my time. It has various chapters describing physical condition, religions, relationship with China, how had co-ordination been with China, co-ordination been with India. It also describes about the people’s life during my times.

Tibetoday: During our earlier meeting you have also mentioned about another book you had worked on Tibet. Will you tell us a bit on that as well?

M.K: Yeah, the moment I returned from Tibet and Nepal areas, I decided to visit the Buddhist pilgrimage or festival that used to happen once in twelve years called Tsari Rang Khor, which happens in Tsari region of Tibet. I have heard the eminent Britishers and countrymen who tried accessing the area were advised not to step on this gorges side because Tagins, Mara Tagins particularly living there were so hostile but we went there without any escort, soldiers and weapons.

And my wife, who started writing by that time, wrote the book on that expedition, which remained half done because she died soon after coming back to Delhi. So I had to complete that book. Though the book is not exactly on Tibet, but it does contain detail description of the pilgrimage. Today that book has been republished by National Trust Book in Delhi priced at Rs. 80/- only. It was my idea to keep the price low because I want the Tibetans, people of North east to read this book, about this wonderful pilgrimage of the past. The sixth Dalia Lama visited this pilgrimage and the present His Holiness had not been there. I am sure only reason is that there is no more pilgrimage held there because Chinese have banned it.

Tibetoday: You might have had an opportunity to meet His Holiness as an Indian officer stationed in Tibet. Will you tell us about the moment you had with him, if so?

M.K: Yes, His Holiness was only 14 when he fled, shall I say from Lhasa to take a journey to India to stay in Yartung Sharima and then cross over to India for a consultation with the Govt. of India regarding what can be done about the crisis the Lhasa was experiencing.

In Gyantse his caravan was passing, I was very much there to receive him on the way, Heinrich Harrier was there to receive him and lots of people were there; govt. officials and others. Naturally, I was advised to go and pay my respect to the ruler of the Tibet. So I went there and was told that His Holiness would like to meet you. He is happy that you are coming and he has something to tell you. So I went and then he gave me a very brief message, please inform the Govt. of India that I am coming. I am not able to inform them because the missionary in Lhasa had been more or less broken those days and when I come there I would like to have consultation with Govt. of India. Beyond that there was huge crowd and enormous sea of local heads, men, women congregated round and round that it was impossible to last longer that everybody wanted his blessings. When I came out after meeting everybody started touching me. I was so curious and later was told that you had been to Dalai Lama. Everybody thinks that you are holy man.

Tibetoday: Coming back to your stay in Tibet, would you like to share any fond memories that you still cherish about your days in Tibet?

M.K: Well, you asked me about my friends, I have innumerable friends and I do miss them. I feel they are lost to me, some of them are no more; somebody is hiding somewhere, not knowing that I am hiding here. So that’s what it is, that is way of life. They were all very friendly and very nice to me. They were officials passing through Gyantse; they used to have parties and entertainment. We used to play polo together, play other games. And today when I have people from Tibet and North East coming to see me it makes me happy and they feel happy too.